15 Jun 2017

Fiji - Part 1 - Land birding near Suva

Golden Fruit Dove - Ptilinopus luteovirens

This trip was centred on a ten-day boat trip to look for the Critically Endangered Fiji Petrel, of which, more later. 

Fiji is a direct ten-hour flight from Hong Kong, but despite the Fiji national team's success in the Hong Kong Sevens Rugby Tournament (and the Rio Olympics) I confess I had never been inspired to go there before.

The prospect of some land and sea birding spurred me to do some research.

I scoured my extensive library and found this: -

Much more usefully, after searching online, I got hold of Dick Watling’s “A Guide to the Birds of Fiji and Western Polynesia…”. Apart from illustrations and species accounts there are good sections on conservation and the ornithological history of the region.

It was apparent that the taxonomy and some of the  bird names had changed since the book came out, but we decided to “see ‘em first..." and work out the new names later… If I'm still confused about the names, you'll have to bear with me.

Suva, Fiji’s capital, is a bus ride of about 180kms  from the International Airport at Nadi. It takes about five hours on the buses that ply the route. A throng of would-be bag carriers greeted the coach.

Licenced wheelbarrow porters, Suva Bus Stand

We headed for  Colo-I-Suva “Rainforest Eco Resort”.  Several of the commoner endemics or near-endemics could be seen or heard in the resort grounds. Originally, five out of the six people on our seabirding trip were going to go to Colo-I-Suva first. As it turned out, four of us made it to the Resort. Due to unusually wet weather for the time of the year, more time was spent in the on-site restaurant than originally planned.

Angus and Bob after their second cups of tea

One of the smartest things we did was to secure the services of the local bird guide “Vili” - Vilikesa “Vili” Masibalavu – (vmasibalavuATconservation.org)  - he's on Facebook, too.

Vili led us to the “Pipeline Trail” - much mentioned in Fiji birding trip reports. I was less than confident that we could have identified the trail by ourselves.

Yesterday's rain rises as today's mist

Giant Forest Honeyeaters - Gymnomyza brunneirostris

Collared Lory - Phigys solitarius
Pacific (White-collared) Kingfisher - Todiramphus sacer

Orange-breasted Honeyeater - Myzomela jugularis

Fiji Woodswallow - Artamus mentalis

Chestnut-throated Flycatcher - Myiagra castaneogularis
An afternoon was spent along the Namosi road.  (About 35 km west of Suva on the Queen's Highway, turn inland at a sign for the "Kila Eco Adventure Park")  Nice habitat, and we saw a variety of endemics, but birding was generally slow due to the time of day.

Vili was unavailable later in our stay, but we returned easily to the pipeline trail several times by ourselves.

Taxis are cheap and plentiful around Suva.

Directions to the pipeline trail : LEFT from the Rainforest Eco Resort, go about 1 km to Colo-I-Suva township.
Left again on a paved road and after 200m left onto Savura Road (the road to a Radio Tower) . After 1km, the road dips and there is a large water tank.  Look left here and downhill past the gate is the pipeline trail. Taxi Fare from Resort to trailhead: 3.6 Fiji dollars.  

Most of these shots were taken within a few hundred metres of the pipeline trail entrance gate.

Golden Fruit Dove - Ptilinopus luteovirens

Streaked Fantail - Rhipidura spilodera

Fiji White-Eye - Zosterops explorator

Polynesian Triller - Lalage maculosa

Scarlet Robin - Petroica multicolor

Fiji Wattled Honeyeater - Foulehaio taviunensis

We also birded Colo-I-Suva Forest, but it wasn’t as good as  the pipeline road.

Birding Colo-I-Suva Forest Park

Golden Fruit Dove (f)  - Ptilinopus luteovirens

Fiji Whistler - Pachycephala vitiensis

Barking Imperial Pigeon - Ducula latrans

Fiji Flying-Fox

We did some general sightseeing in Suva city ...

Botanical Gardens, Suva

Dockside Market, Suva

Apart from sightseeing, we went to Suva Point one afternoon. The tide didn’t really come in before it got dark, so we didn’t find the high-tide roost of waders reported from there. We had distant views of a few waders, including Pacific Golden Plover. But mid-May was probably a bit late for most migrant waders, anyway.

Western (Pacific) Reef Egret - Egretta sacra

Plenty for waders to feed on !

Meanwhile, due to Cyclone Emma, there was bad weather at sea, and we had to backtrack to Nadi's Port Denerau to board our boat for the sea-birding leg of the trip, instead of at Suva as originally planned.

While waiting in a dockside bar at Port Denerau, I spied a small group of Fiji Parrotfinches on the grass outside.   I interrupted my glass of Fiji Bitter for a shot of them...

Fiji Parrotfinch - Erythrura pealii

An unusual level of photographic dedication from me, I'll admit.

Some of the mega-yachts in the marina really looked like spaceships (background) but Yacht Sauvage - our home for the next ten days - is a real yacht.  

Seabirding ? We were keen to get started...


  1. That golden pigeon is amazing...........

    Fiji White-eyes look exactly like white-eyes everywhere else though!

    1. Thanks, Stu - White-eyes are pretty same-ish, I agree

  2. As usual,John,a fabulous account with so many interesting species. I think we are all in awe of your peregrinations.

    1. Hi David, We're lucky to have so many good destinations close to us here in HK !

  3. I get genuinely excited when I see a post from one of your travels. I did'nt know most of the bird species but I could guess the families that they belong to. Great photos.

    1. The family names seem to be frequently under review, too - Thanks, John !