30 May 2025

Western Sichuan 16th to 25th May - Part 2


The new highway to Sichuan’s Tibetan Grasslands opens this summer. As we drove north from Maerkang we could admire it at a distance. But even the older road is smooth and straight, and we made Ruoergai in good time.


I last visited Ruoergai twenty years ago. It has developed out of all recognition since then.  From the old place with a “Rough Outpost” feeling, we found ourselves for two nights in a gleaming hotel with Kenny G elevator music. 


The Yak Herder lifestyle does not seem to have changed much, though.



White-rumped Snowfinch


We stopped at a viewpoint in the early morning and added Rock Sparrow, Tibetan Ground Tit and White-rumped Snowfinch to the trip list.  Then the search was on to find hillsides with some scrubby bush cover in the hope of a bit more variety.  




We found more birds, but not every one provided a photo opportunity. Tibetan Partridges remained distant, but Yellow-streaked Warbler and White-browed Tit were more obliging. 


Partridges in view !

An Iris - but which one ?

Yellow-streaked Warbler

White-browed Tit


A distant Fox and a single Sika Deer were added to the mammal list.


In 2005 the road north out of Ruoergai cut through open pastures. Now, as a sign of increased domestic tourism, the same road (G 213) passes a succession of Tourist Attractions, presented as natural features of various kinds. Day-trippers were feeding Brown-headed Gulls in one of the Coach Car Parks. We managed to take a fork east of these and viewed Saker Falcon and our only Wolf of the trip. Sheep and Yak dotted the overgrazed hills.


Wolf


Saker Falcon

Little Owl

Tibetan Herdsman

On the way back, we had good views of a Lammergeier in flight, as well as Himalayan Griffon Vultures and a single Black Vulture feasting on dead sheep. 




Himalayan Griffon and Black Vulture

Back near the hotel, a patch of damp meadow held a few species, including breeding Ruddy Shelduck..


Ruddy Shelduck

East of the grasslands the road passes through wooded valleys and warmer farmland - our last 

birding of the trip would be there....


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